Mixed Bag

Carbon Microphone, Mid-Century Dish Set, and More

The carbon microphone is very cool! See here about carbon microphones.

A Spool Cabinet, Lamp, and mid-century furniture

Lots of good stuff today! The last two items on the second row from the top are the best deal.

4-30 “Marsha’s Daily Pick” Austin Craigslist

4-23 “Marsha’s Daily Pick” Austin Craigslist

Soooo much cool stuff today!! Here’s the rundown: couch has great bones, coffee table is refurbished, credenza almost gone, hoosier cabinet needs work but is worth it, dresser cute, medical supply cabinet/bar what more can I say, sexy radio/turntable, unique ceramic and teak lamp. The deal for today would be the credenza.

4-14 “Marsha’s Daily Pick” Austin Craigslist

The Ottoman would be a fun re-upholstering job, and I really love the vintage ceramic pots.

Recirculating Sink

The recirculating sink in its finished form

Need a sink but can’t get it plumbed? Here’s what you do.

Note: Before you attempt this project be aware that the water in this sink is non-potable and the sink may not operate properly if too much water is either taken from or put into the sink or its reservoirs. This is important because you would not want the sink to say run dry from having too much water taken from it nor would you want your sink to overflow with water.

My two good reasons for this project are: I live in a rental, I am a potter. I absolutely needed a sink that would not get clogged with clay and I really did not want to pay for a fully plumbed sink that I would then have to explain to my landlords why it is in the carport.

The rough cost of this project is around $300.00 (if you have the tools already)

If you like the idea but would rather not make it yourself Creative Industries has something like this sink for sale but their version is more robust.

Update: see all the photos I took for this project on Flickr!

Tools List:

• Wrench
• Work towels
• Drill
• Drill bits
• 1¾” hole saw
• Sharpie marker
• Flat head screwdriver
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Utility knife

Materials

• Laundry sink
• Plant stand with wheels (for the 5 gal. bucket to rest on)
• 2x 4’ Washing machine hoses
• Four feet of 1” Clear vinyl tubing
• Water Pump — I suggest Wayne PC2 115-volt 310 GPH portable transfer water pump
• 3x 5 gal. buckets with lids
• Laundry faucet
• 4” long drain extender (one that will fit your sink’s drain)
• Water Filter — I suggest Culligan HF-360 Whole House Water Filter System
• Filters – I suggest Amtek/Culligan/Pentak P5 Sediment Water Filter
• Screws
• Hook Screw (with a large enough opening for the washing machine hose)
• Silicon sealant — I suggest DAP Auto Marine Sealant
• Teflon tape

Fittings

• 

  1x Brass ½”male pipe to ¾” male hose

• 

  1x Brass ¾”male pipe to ¾” male hose

• 

  4x Brass ½” male hose to ¾” barb

• 

  1x Brass ¾” male pipe to ¾” barb

• 

  3x Plastic ½” Bulkheads

Maintenance

• Replacement filters
• Mosquito dunks (if sink is outside)
• Bleach

Optional

• Waterproof hand or foot switch

First find a covered place to put your sink — you will not want the elements getting to your water pump. A place up against a wall with access to an outlet is ideal so you can attach the sink, pump, and other things to it. Make sure the pump’s power cord will reach the outlet without use of extension cord.

The buckets we'll be using and their hole placement.

Drill the sink to the wall making sure you leave room for the pump and filter. Next use the hole saw to cut holes in the lids. The first lid has a hole in the middle and the second lid has a hole that is as close to its edge as you can make it.

Next use the hole saw to cut holes in the sides of both the buckets. On the first bucket the hole is placed 5” down from the top, and the second bucket has a hole placed 8” down from the top.

Now attach the bulkheads to both of the buckets (make sure to use a couple wraps of Teflon tape around the threaded parts). Once securely screwed down apply the silicon sealant on the inside and the outside where the bulkhead and bucket meet. This will make your system watertight. Let the sealant cure, usually overnight.

Wrapping the fitting with Teflon tape

Next day screw the drain extender onto your sink then set the buckets in their positions, one under the sink and the other off to one side. The bucket that has a hole 5” down from the top is placed under the sink. This same bucket has the lid with a hole close to its edge; place the drain extender into that hole. The bucket under the sink then goes on top of the rolling plant stand. Next screw the last bulkhead to the other lid with the hole in the middle, no need for silicon sealant on this one. This lid is for the other bucket off to the side of the sink.

Then wrap the threaded parts of the four brass ½” male pipe to ¾” barb fittings with Teflon tape.

Tightening the fitting

Screw these fittings to the bulkheads one each on the outsides if the buckets, the other two go on both sides of the lid that has a bulkhead. Tighten all fittings down.

Attachment for buckets to filter

Using the utility knife cut a 13” length of the vinyl tubing to go between the buckets, then squeeze the tubing over the barbed ends of the fittings. Next cut a 5” piece for the inside of the lid. Lastly attach the remainder of the tubing to the top of the lid.

(The water filter is only important if the sink is used for any materials that have sediment which might clog the pump)

Now screw the mount for the water filter to the wall. I placed mine around 31” up from the ground but it really does not matter too much as to where you place the filter as long as you can access it easily. Next unscrew the water filter housing (the part that holds the filter) from its top, and then attach the housing top to the mount. The housing should have a threaded part — wrap that with Teflon tape then place the filter in the housing, put the “O” ring on, and apply the lube supplied by the manufacturer. Fill housing with water all the way to the top, and screw back onto the housing top (do not over-tighten!).

Wrap the brass ¾” male pipe to ¾” barb fitting with Teflon tape and screw into the “IN” side of the filter. Next wrap the brass ¾”male pipe to ¾” male hose fitting and screw into the “OUT” side of the filter. Tighten both fittings.

Lead the vinyl tubing from the top of the bucket to the barbed fitting on the water filter then cut the vinyl tubing to an appropriate length and slip over the barbed fitting.

(The water pump is the heart of this sink so get a good one and do not run it dry)

Top view: filter to pump

Screw the water pump to the wall just above the water filter (take note the water pump has an “IN” and “OUT” side just like the water filter). The pump has threaded fittings — wrap both of these with Teflon tape. Next screw a washing machine hose to the “OUT” side of the water filter then screw the other end of the hose to the “IN” side of the pump. The second washing machine hose is screwed to the “OUT” side of the pump. Tighten all fittings.

Hose attachment to the faucet

If you got a faucet like mine with a hot and cold water side chose a side either hot or cold and that side will be the “working side” which means it will need to be in the “ON” position. The non-working side will then need to be put in the “OFF” position. Don’t use the faucet to turn the water on and off (this will just break your pump!), instead to turn the water off you will have to unplug the pump. Next attach the faucet to the wall above the sink wherever you think it will be the most useful. Now after you wrapped the brass ½”male pipe to ¾” male hose fitting with Teflon tape screw it to the faucet on the working side. Then screw the hose leading from the pump to the faucet and tighten.

If the hose from the pump to the faucet gets in your way use the hook screw to keep it against the wall.

Fill the sink with water, taking care not to overfill the sink. Moving the bucket lids to the side is an easy way to keep your eye on the water level. Once filled turn the pump on and you have got yourself a sink!

If you would like to make your sink extra fancy install either a waterproof foot switch or hand switch for the pump.

Remember not to add or take too much water from the sink: for example, when I am doing ceramics I get the water for my throwing bucket from the kitchen sink and once I am ready to clean up I then dump the contents of the throwing bucket in a spare 5 gal. container (which is not connected to the sink) I have next to the sink. I do this so I am not taking any water from the sink nor am I adding any to it, this is important because you would not want the sink to run dry from having too much water taken from it nor would you want your sink to overflow with water.

(If pump does not pull water up within five to eight seconds turn it off and check to make sure the faucet is in the correct position to have water coming out of it. Also check to make sure the hoses running from the “IN and “OUT” sides of the filter and pump are correctly positioned. If this does not work fill the hose leading from filter to pump with water to get it going. Do not run pump dry this will cause damage to it.)

To maintain your system you will periodically have to turn the sink on for a minute or two if not used for a week and keep you buckets full of water. I also suggest you put a small amount of bleach in the water to keep the algae away. If your sink is outside you might need to put a mosquito dunk in. Replace water when necessary, and the filter will eventually need to be replaced too so keep some on hand.