Finished cover for the raised bed.
Once you have finished your raised planting bed you will probably start noticing that something is digging holes in your well-tended soil or maybe even munching on the tender green shoots that come up. These little or even big invaders no matter how cute must be stopped! I personally had a major squirrel problem and this project was the only thing I found to be a animal friendly long-term solution. This cover is a complimentary project for the raised bed and is easy, it should only take you part of one day to complete.
The rough cost of this project is around $55.00-$60.00 (if you have the tools already)
Tools:
- Hack Saw (Optional)
- Pliers
- Scissors
- Safety Glasses
Materials:
For a 4′ x 4′ Bed:
- 44′ Total of 1″ Diameter PVC Pipe – Cut into Lengths:
(2x 10′) (6x 4′).
- One Package of 14′x14′ Tree Netting Cut:
one (10½’x4½’) piece for the top
and two (4½’x4½’ ) pieces for the sides
- Roll of Twine
- 8x 8″ Cable Ties
For a 8′ x 4′ Bed:
- 70′ Total of 1″ Diameter PVC Pipe – Cut into Lengths:
(3x 10′) (4x 8′) (2x 4′)
- One Package of 14′x14′ Tree Netting Cut:
one (10½’x8½’ ) piece for the top
and two (4½’x4½’ ) pieces for the sides
- Roll of Twine
- 12x 8″ Cable Ties
Notes:
- I had some of my pipe cut where I purchased it. The remaining uncut pieces I cut with the hack saw.
- If you bend PVC too far it will shatter.
- For a 4′x4′ bed you will only need two 10′ lengths for the arches, one in each corner.
- The cable ties hold best if you cross two, one over the other, for each connection.
- Use the Pliers to tighten the cable ties.
- Make sure that the netting not only touches the top of your bed but also has three inches extra on each side.
Cable tie.
First take the three 10′ pipes and shove the ends down 9″ into one length of the bed, two of the pipes in each corner and one in the middle. Then arch the pipes width-wise to the opposite side and shove down 9″ into the bed. Now using the cable ties attach the two 8′ pipes to each of the arches on both sides of the structure making sure they are high enough to not be in the way but low enough to stabilize the structure. Next cut the piece of netting for the top of the arches. Use the twine to tie the edges down at the top of the structure, stop tying when you get to the horizontal pipe. Then cut two pieces of netting for the sides of the structure. Tie those to the top of the sides stopping when you get to the ends of the horizontal pipe. You can trim the excess netting off the corners once all sides are tied. Next lay the remaining pipe on top of the extra 3″ of netting on all sides then tie the netting around the pipe. This will hold the netting down to keep the critters out.
Corner tied with twine.
Cut 4x 12″ of twine and use those to tie (in a bow for easy to removal ) the corners together. When you need to water or tend your garden all you have to do is untie the corners, lift up the netting sides, then rest the netting and pipe on top of the structure. The only things this cover does not keep out are insects.
Netting sides pulled up.
Corner view of finished bed
Spring will soon be upon us and with that comes the thoughts of fresh green shoots sprouting out of the dark earth. If you have ever wanted to grow an ornamental or vegetable garden here are the steps to build your own raised planting bed.
The rough cost of this project is around $150.00-$200.00 (if you have the tools already).
Tools:
- Electric Drill
- 1/2″ Spade Bit
- Pencil
- Hammer
- Work Gloves
- Measuring Tape
- Shovel (a square point works well)
- Safety Glasses
- Sunlight Meter (Optional)
- Soil pH Meter (Optional)
Materials:
For a 4′ x 4′ x 9″ Bed:
- 6x 8′ Landscaping Timbers (All cut in half width wise)
- 8x 2′ Rebar
- 40/60 – Compost/Top Soil (Volume = Length x Width x Depth)
- Mulch (enough for 2-4 inches across the top of the bed)
For a 8′ x 4′ x 9″ Bed:
- 9x 8′ Landscaping Timbers (3 cut in half width wise)
- 8x 2′ Rebar
- 40/60 – Compost/Top Soil (Volume = Length x Width x Depth)
- Mulch (enough for 2-4 inches across the top of the bed)
Notes:
- These directions are the same for both sized beds.
- A raised bed is an alternative to planting directly in the soil if your soil is too hard or damp to work with.
- I used landscaping timbers because they are free of cyanide. Ask to make sure your timbers are also cyanide free.
- I had my landscaping timbers cut at the place where I purchased them.
- If you are using fresh or “hot” manure compost it four months before using it in the bed or as a side dressing. Fresh manure will burn your plants.
- Mulch: wood chips, grass clipping, newspaper, leaves, compost etc.
- Read about gardening in your region.
First find a good spot to put your bed, the amount of light that spot gets will determine the kind of plants you will be able to grow. If you are having trouble figuring out whet level of light you have I suggest purchasing a sunlight meter.
After you have your perfect spot, clear that area of foreign matter and grass. Grass can be taken out one of several ways: first you can place a heavy black plastic tarp over it anchoring the sides down with rocks, that will kill the grass in a couple weeks. The second method is using newspaper 8-10 layers thick, overlapping in a shingle type pattern with a layer of mulch applied to the top then sprayed down with water. This will smother the grass over the course of a couple weeks. The third method is dumping boiling water wherever you may want the grass to die — this will take several tries. The fourth method to remove grass is by brute force: run your shovel under the turf and lift it away (do not till the grass in; this will not kill it).
Side views of the 4'x8' bed.
Once the grass is removed mark where the corners of the bed will go (I used pennies). Then stack all the timbers on top of one another just like if it were finished.
Next mark each side on both of its ends six inches in from the very edge of the structure. Then on the same mark make a second mark for the middle (width wise) of the timber. Get a friend to hold the wood down while you are drilling. Also, make sure that the drill bit is perfectly perpendicular to the ground. Now using your spade bit, drill all eight marks till you hit the second timber down this will then mark where you drill next. Remove the top layer of timbers (make sure you will be able to re-stack them in exactly same orientation), find where the center of the drill marks are and drill through those marks till you hit the bottom timber. Remove the top layer of timbers (make sure you will be able to re-stack them in exactly the same orientation), find where the center of the drill marks are and drill through those marks till you hit the ground. Re-stack the timbers, and make sure the holes in the timber are lined up. If not, either re-drill a new hole or widen an existing hole with the spade bit.
Positioning for the holes (the structure will shift over time as mine has)
Then shimmy the rebar into the holes down from the top. Wearing your safety glasses and work gloves start hammering the tops of the rebar to force them down into the ground. If you are having difficulty doing this check the holes, as they may need to be widened. It does take some force to hammer the rebar all the way down. The tops of the rebar should be flush with the top of the timber.
Once all the rebar has been hammered down you can start filling the bed with your soil. Make sure you turn it well so that it is mixed thoroughly. Now you can plant your bed with either transplants or with seeds. Then layer the bed with around 2-4″ of mulch to decrease water loss, for seeds wait to mulch till after they have come up. It is important to read about each plant before you put them in your bed because the soil pH, sunlight, drainage, and time of year will effect the viability of your plants. It is also good to read up on what pests and plant diseases to look out for so you can provide preventative measures. I hope that following these steps will help you create the best environment for your plants to grow in.
The recirculating sink in its finished form
Need a sink but can’t get it plumbed? Here’s what you do.
Note: Before you attempt this project be aware that the water in this sink is non-potable and the sink may not operate properly if too much water is either taken from or put into the sink or its reservoirs. This is important because you would not want the sink to say run dry from having too much water taken from it nor would you want your sink to overflow with water.
My two good reasons for this project are: I live in a rental, I am a potter. I absolutely needed a sink that would not get clogged with clay and I really did not want to pay for a fully plumbed sink that I would then have to explain to my landlords why it is in the carport.
The rough cost of this project is around $300.00 (if you have the tools already)
If you like the idea but would rather not make it yourself Creative Industries has something like this sink for sale but their version is more robust.
Update: see all the photos I took for this project on Flickr!
Tools List:
- Wrench
- Work towels
- Drill
- Drill bits
- 1¾” hole saw
- Sharpie marker
- Flat head screwdriver
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Utility knife
Materials
- Laundry sink
- Plant stand with wheels (for the 5 gal. bucket to rest on)
- 2x 4’ Washing machine hoses
- Four feet of 1” Clear vinyl tubing
- Water Pump — I suggest Wayne PC2 115-volt 310 GPH portable transfer water pump
- 3x 5 gal. buckets with lids
- Laundry faucet
- 4” long drain extender (one that will fit your sink’s drain)
- Water Filter — I suggest Culligan HF-360 Whole House Water Filter System
- Filters – I suggest Amtek/Culligan/Pentak P5 Sediment Water Filter
- Screws
- Hook Screw (with a large enough opening for the washing machine hose)
- Silicon sealant — I suggest DAP Auto Marine Sealant
- Teflon tape
Fittings
-
1x Brass ½”male pipe to ¾” male hose
-
1x Brass ¾”male pipe to ¾” male hose
-
4x Brass ½” male hose to ¾” barb
-
1x Brass ¾” male pipe to ¾” barb
-
3x Plastic ½” Bulkheads
Maintenance
- Replacement filters
- Mosquito dunks (if sink is outside)
- Bleach
Optional
- Waterproof hand or foot switch
First find a covered place to put your sink — you will not want the elements getting to your water pump. A place up against a wall with access to an outlet is ideal so you can attach the sink, pump, and other things to it. Make sure the pump’s power cord will reach the outlet without use of extension cord.
The buckets we'll be using and their hole placement.
Drill the sink to the wall making sure you leave room for the pump and filter. Next use the hole saw to cut holes in the lids. The first lid has a hole in the middle and the second lid has a hole that is as close to its edge as you can make it.
Next use the hole saw to cut holes in the sides of both the buckets. On the first bucket the hole is placed 5” down from the top, and the second bucket has a hole placed 8” down from the top.
Now attach the bulkheads to both of the buckets (make sure to use a couple wraps of Teflon tape around the threaded parts). Once securely screwed down apply the silicon sealant on the inside and the outside where the bulkhead and bucket meet. This will make your system watertight. Let the sealant cure, usually overnight.
Wrapping the fitting with Teflon tape
Next day screw the drain extender onto your sink then set the buckets in their positions, one under the sink and the other off to one side. The bucket that has a hole 5” down from the top is placed under the sink. This same bucket has the lid with a hole close to its edge; place the drain extender into that hole. The bucket under the sink then goes on top of the rolling plant stand. Next screw the last bulkhead to the other lid with the hole in the middle, no need for silicon sealant on this one. This lid is for the other bucket off to the side of the sink.
Then wrap the threaded parts of the four brass ½” male pipe to ¾” barb fittings with Teflon tape.
Tightening the fitting
Screw these fittings to the bulkheads one each on the outsides if the buckets, the other two go on both sides of the lid that has a bulkhead. Tighten all fittings down.
Attachment for buckets to filter
Using the utility knife cut a 13” length of the vinyl tubing to go between the buckets, then squeeze the tubing over the barbed ends of the fittings. Next cut a 5” piece for the inside of the lid. Lastly attach the remainder of the tubing to the top of the lid.
(The water filter is only important if the sink is used for any materials that have sediment which might clog the pump)
Now screw the mount for the water filter to the wall. I placed mine around 31” up from the ground but it really does not matter too much as to where you place the filter as long as you can access it easily. Next unscrew the water filter housing (the part that holds the filter) from its top, and then attach the housing top to the mount. The housing should have a threaded part — wrap that with Teflon tape then place the filter in the housing, put the “O” ring on, and apply the lube supplied by the manufacturer. Fill housing with water all the way to the top, and screw back onto the housing top (do not over-tighten!).
Wrap the brass ¾” male pipe to ¾” barb fitting with Teflon tape and screw into the “IN” side of the filter. Next wrap the brass ¾”male pipe to ¾” male hose fitting and screw into the “OUT” side of the filter. Tighten both fittings.
Lead the vinyl tubing from the top of the bucket to the barbed fitting on the water filter then cut the vinyl tubing to an appropriate length and slip over the barbed fitting.
(The water pump is the heart of this sink so get a good one and do not run it dry)
Top view: filter to pump
Screw the water pump to the wall just above the water filter (take note the water pump has an “IN” and “OUT” side just like the water filter). The pump has threaded fittings — wrap both of these with Teflon tape. Next screw a washing machine hose to the “OUT” side of the water filter then screw the other end of the hose to the “IN” side of the pump. The second washing machine hose is screwed to the “OUT” side of the pump. Tighten all fittings.
Hose attachment to the faucet
If you got a faucet like mine with a hot and cold water side chose a side either hot or cold and that side will be the “working side” which means it will need to be in the “ON” position. The non-working side will then need to be put in the “OFF” position. Don’t use the faucet to turn the water on and off (this will just break your pump!), instead to turn the water off you will have to unplug the pump. Next attach the faucet to the wall above the sink wherever you think it will be the most useful. Now after you wrapped the brass ½”male pipe to ¾” male hose fitting with Teflon tape screw it to the faucet on the working side. Then screw the hose leading from the pump to the faucet and tighten.
If the hose from the pump to the faucet gets in your way use the hook screw to keep it against the wall.
Fill the sink with water, taking care not to overfill the sink. Moving the bucket lids to the side is an easy way to keep your eye on the water level. Once filled turn the pump on and you have got yourself a sink!
If you would like to make your sink extra fancy install either a waterproof foot switch or hand switch for the pump.
Remember not to add or take too much water from the sink: for example, when I am doing ceramics I get the water for my throwing bucket from the kitchen sink and once I am ready to clean up I then dump the contents of the throwing bucket in a spare 5 gal. container (which is not connected to the sink) I have next to the sink. I do this so I am not taking any water from the sink nor am I adding any to it, this is important because you would not want the sink to run dry from having too much water taken from it nor would you want your sink to overflow with water.
(If pump does not pull water up within five to eight seconds turn it off and check to make sure the faucet is in the correct position to have water coming out of it. Also check to make sure the hoses running from the “IN and “OUT” sides of the filter and pump are correctly positioned. If this does not work fill the hose leading from filter to pump with water to get it going. Do not run pump dry this will cause damage to it.)
To maintain your system you will periodically have to turn the sink on for a minute or two if not used for a week and keep you buckets full of water. I also suggest you put a small amount of bleach in the water to keep the algae away. If your sink is outside you might need to put a mosquito dunk in. Replace water when necessary, and the filter will eventually need to be replaced too so keep some on hand.
